Sedating, Force Feeding, Injections and CPR for Seahorses
Introduction
One particular problem serious seahorse keepers and breeders face is lack of veterinary support. Some vets are willing to try to help, but most turn seahorse keepers away due to lack of aquatic animal experience. The hobbyist is then left with the choice of letting their beloved pets waste away, or attempting to try advanced care techniques themselves. Force feeding may be necessary when a seahorse stops eating. Administering medications by injection may also be the only chance of saving the life of a very sick animal.
This article is for those hobbyists who feel its necessary to go the extra mile in supportive care for their seahorses. The procedures described here are not for everyone and can be dangerous to both human as well as seahorse. It is advised you read the document carefully, and if you decide to attempt these procedures, do so at your own risk. Sometimes even when performed correctly, you can lose an animal due to sheer stress. But there are times when the only hope for survival is to take such risks.
Equipment you will need.
To perform any of these procedures, you’ll need some basic equipment to get started. Most of the equipment you’ll need is the same whether for force feeding or injections.
- Two shallow dishes with tank water. (just shallow enough to cover seahorse ventrally)
- Clove oil
- Small vial or baggy
- One or two iv catheters with the needle removed (one for injections, two for force feeding)
- One or two syringes without needles
- Syringes with needle, 28 gauge or smaller (for injections only).
- Sterile water for injection (for injections only)
- Accurate Scale (Digital is best)
- Air Pump (optional)
From left to right, back row: scale, air pump, sterile water, 28 gauge syringe, syringe and catheter, cup of liquid food, "dummy" seahorse, antibiotic, clove oil, small vial Front Row: Pan with tank water and clove oil, air line, syringe and catheter with fresh seawater, pan with fresh seawater.
I have a question….. I found a beautiful sea horse on the beach on the sand… I tried to return it to the Ocean in Bahia Brazil but it seemed to be drowning so I took it out and tried to revive it at home, sadly it died a few hours later. It is about 6 inches long… had no visible injuries… why do you think this beautiful animal was on the sand and why do you think it died…
I feel sad it died but so is nature…
Thank you,
March 20th, 2009 at 4:59 pmKurt
Its impossible to say, but the fact that you found it on the sand is not a good sign to begin with. Chances are it was already dying and that’s why it washed ashore. Maybe old age, who knows? A six inch seahorse from that area is probable an adult H. reidi. But great job in trying to save it, I’m sure it was better dying in piece rather than baking in the sun.
March 22nd, 2009 at 7:06 amwow, this is great! i never thought something like this exist! been planning to breed seahorses but a friend told me that seahorses are so far hard to breed because they don’t survive long especially in aquariums. i wonder why, must be some kind of a joke…
December 4th, 2009 at 6:18 pmSeahorses can be a challenge to keep in aquariums, especially if you don’t provide them with the appropriate environments. Many people have then attributed the premature death of their seahorse as not being long lived. Most larger species of seahorses live a good 5 years or more.
December 5th, 2009 at 1:57 amTami,
I have a sick seahorse and I don’t know what to do for him. I can’t find a vet, even did the on line and no one answered me, he had gas bubbles in his pouch a few months ago and recovered from just massage them out. Last night I found himon the bottom of my tank and was breathing, but one of his eyes have a gray cast to them. I had ordered a pouch kit and and flushed his pouch witht the antib otic that it came with from ocean rider. Is there anything I can do for him?
Sincerely
May 31st, 2011 at 6:59 amLiz Schumacher
It sounds a lot like a bacteria infection. I would recommend placing in a hospital tank, lowering the temperature down to 68 degrees over the course of a day, and treat with a regiment of antibiotics. Temperature control is going to be the biggest thing you can do to help now, as the bacteria spreads slower at lower temperatures.
May 31st, 2011 at 12:20 pmTami,
I do not have a hospital tank, I have an old 10gallon but no extra sand. At the moment can’t reach him he when between to immovable rocks. I noticed that one eye is normal and one eye is while and cloudy, he seems to be sensitive to light. Anything else I can do for him?
I took a picture this morning, but I don’t know how to send it to you.
V/r
May 31st, 2011 at 1:40 pmLiz
You can get an account and post pictures to the forum here: http://www.fusedjaw.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=8
A hospital tank shouldn’t have sand. It should be bare bottom with artificial hitching posts, a filter, and possibly a heater, though if you’re trying to get the temp to 68 you probably don’t need one. Since you don’t have one set up already, you’re going to need to do daily water changes and keep an eye on ammonia. The only way you can treat with antibiotics without doing injections is in a hospital tank.
You could try lowering the temperature in the main tank to 68 and see if it passes, but if you have any cold sensitive inhabitants, this could stress or kill them. I also haven’t had a lot of luck with cool temperatures alone once symptoms start showing; generally a course of antibiotics is necessary.
As for finding a vet, back to your original comment, I’ve found that getting to talk to a reptile vet you have the best shot. its not the same type of animal, but in my experience, they’re more willing to try to help. However, you need to get ahold of the vet themselves, often times the receptionists are no help at all.
May 31st, 2011 at 5:37 pmTami,
With the help of a friend we set up a 10gallon hospital tank, was able to relocate the seahorse and floated him in the hospital tank while he was floating he was alert and swimming around. once we put him in the hospital tank he actually was swimming good and went to the shell to see if any food. I put a few mysis shrimp but he would not eat. He’s back to lying on the bottom, seems to be sensitive to light so I put brown paer ion the side of the tank to keep it dark. Were you able to see the picture?
I did the on line vet but she pass, said she had no advice. Hope this works, but i do not see any fungus or spots, only his pouch is very narrow, not full like normal.
V/r
May 31st, 2011 at 7:57 pmLiz
Tami,
Well it’s been 3 days, and he’s still alive but not eating. Tried to hand feen him; he sucks in the food and than spits it out? Why wouls he spit the food out?
How can send you a picture? His eyes are cloudy like he has caracts? Doing water changes and adding the Methylene Blue and today added Maracn-Oxy.
Any other suggestions? I can’t locate vet in my area, called the Balitomore Aquarium but no one could help me. I even called the manufacture of Kordon and spoke with a doctor, but he said to add the Maracyn-Oxy or Maracyn two, but my pet store did not have the Maracyn two.
Thanks for your suggestions
June 3rd, 2011 at 6:11 pmV/r
Liz